W
hen a leather-clad Marlon Brando rode a Triumph Thunderbird in 1953’s “The Wild One” sporting a black leather jacket, he became an iconic part of film history – and his biker jacket went along for the ride and never stopped.
The traditional Lancer front biker jacket – with its rugged shoulder straps, zipper cuffs, snaps, and belt buckle – has a masculine, somewhat industrial vibe. But its image owes more to the individuals who’ve worn them in the past: the rebels, rockers, and outlaws who made the jacket synonymous with youthful rebellion. Who can forget the handsome young actor James Dean straddling a motorcycle wearing jeans, a white T-shirt, and a leather jacket in the 1955 film “Rebel Without a Cause”? Young people, seeing the leather jacket worn like this for the first time, had to have one.
America has always loved its bad boys. And a bad boy in leather really stirred things up. In film, a leather jacket was the perfect fit for the brooding outcast tasked with saving the day. You know, that guy with the elusive bad reputation…
Marlon Brando
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It’s that same “bad reputation” Joan Jett sang about 27 years later, also wearing a badass leather jacket of her own. With an electric guitar slung low and a scarf around her neck, she was fashionable and cool all at once.
Still, no matter who wears a leather jacket, it has a personality all its own, like a Flying V or a little black dress. But before its personality blossomed, the leather jacket was utility wear made for aviators (made popular after World War II) and motorcycle riders. Amelia Earhart wore a few during her landmark flights.
But the jacket’s association with rock ‘n’ roll began when Elvis Presley gyrated in one.
Amelia Earhart
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Elvis Presley
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Before all that, Schott Bros NYC was the first company to design leather jackets for the mass market, namely bomber and motorcycle leather jackets.
According to the History of Schott, the company’s signature biker jacket, named the “Perfecto,” found the perfect partner in a leading motorcycle manufacturer: “In 1928, Irving Schott designed the first leather motorcycle jacket retailing for $5.50 at a Long Island Harley Davidson distributor.”
Schott’s initial design has seen a few incarnations along the way but has never gone out of style. Just look at the company’s lightweight “Heavy Metal Girl” moto in bubblegum pink; surely a modern take on the classic.
The ’50s and ’60s: Rebels, Mods and Rockers
Motorcycle jackets first appeared on the big screen in biker films like “Hot Angel,” “Motorcycle Gan,” and “The Wild One.” It was the perfect skin for the “troublemakers,” “hot rodders,” and “drag racers” of the 1950s. After the biker’s film debut, sales spiked, and so did the jacket’s mystique…
By the 1960s, musicians wore streamlined versions of the jacket, such as the Beatles’ matching black leathers in their club days. At the height of Beatlemania, they swapped leather for the tailored, collarless suits of the day. Then, The Kinks, The Who, and The Animals ushered in The British invasion with mod leather styles. Jim Morrison rebelled in gorgeous leather jackets (some with oversized lapels), and actor Steve McQueen favored distressed leathers.
The Beatles
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The Kinks
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The Who
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Jim Morrison
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Steve McQueen
The ’70s and ’80s: New Wave, Punk, and Metal
But the New Wave and Punk bands of the ’70s and early ’80s forever cemented the jacket’s cool factor into pop culture. Rock stars The Sex Pistols, The Ramones, Duran Duran, and The Pretenders wore their leather unapologetically brash and bold. For the cover of The Pretenders’ debut album, Chrissie Hynde rocked a heavily-zippered red biker with a pair of fingerless, black-lace gloves poking out the sleeves. Legendary rock photographer Chalkie Davies captured the classic image, which included bassist Pete Farndon in a classic British Mascot biker.
Grittier images of the Ramones on New York’s Lower East Side in silver-chained jackets and Patti Smith with nothing but a glimpse of skin under her leather showed the establishment rock fierceness was here and not going anywhere.
Not only had leather jackets become the symbol of rebellion, but they served as statement gear for female musicians. Although Smith and Hynde helped the male-oriented jacket become a unisex garment, it was still a rare wardrobe choice for women. However, several venturesome artists raised their leathered forearms in a mix of tough but feminine couture. Suzi Quatro (as seen in “Happy Days”), Pat Benatar, Joan Jett, Debbie Harry, Lita Ford, Girlschool, Madam X, and Doro Pesch all owned it in leather.
The Sex Pistols
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The Ramones
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The Pretenders album cover
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Chrissie Hynde
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Suzi Quatro
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Debbie Harry / Blondie
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Lita Ford
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Madam X
Doro Pesch
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Metal Armor
Through the years, the jacket came to symbolize individuality, especially within the heavy metal community. The New Wave of British Heavy metal bands of the early ’80s used “leather” and “denim” as metaphors for the oneness of their fans. The metal kids, outfitted in biker jackets, band T-shirts, and tattered jeans, searched for identity within a heavy metal subculture. But the ultimate hellbent on leather from head to toe was Judas Priest, who also paired the jacket with a whole lotta studs and spikes.
Judas Priest
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Overall, leather exploded in the 1980s with color and sheen. Throughout the decade, glam metal and hard rock bands embraced flashy leather styles. Rockers sported fringed jackets, stud patterns, southwestern conchos, and leather died in bright colors or a stripped stark white. Lorraine Lewis (Femme Fatal) wore studded leather jackets over cropped T-shirts, and Doro Pesch (Warlock) rocked a hard-but-fashionable look with matching jackets and pants.
Lorraine Lewis
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Pop Leather
As far as pop stars, fashion icons like Madonna showed off her mid-drift with a bright-colored bolero and let her black biker strategically fall off her shoulders, a trend that’s made a comeback. Guys also wore impactful leather jackets. In George Michael’s Faith video, his eye-popping BSA Rocker Revenge enjoyed the spotlight along with his ripped jeans. And pop culture icon Michael Jackson’s red-and-black “Thriller” jacket was so iconic it sold for $1.8 million at Julien’s auctions in 2011.
Madonna
George Michael
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Michael Jackson
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The fashions overflowed from music to movies to the runway. Tom Cruise and Kelly McGillis glamourized aviator jackets and leather bomber jackets in “Top Gun.” With her sleeves sexily scrunched and his fur collar turned up, flight jackets soared.
Designing Women
Fashion designers revamped leather jackets with modern details and longer silhouettes. Betsey Johnson added whimsical touches like large bows and painted word art. Meanwhile, Norma Kamali’s shoulder-padded jackets literally elevated the look. Kamali didn’t stop at the waste: above-the-knee and full-length leathers helped girls stand out at the Roxy and the Cat Club.
Retro, Casual ’90s
In the 1990s, leather could brighten the saddest Grunge fan. Nineties leather saw sleek, retro-style blazers and jackets with fur-trimmed collars and cuffs. And supermodels and Hollywood stars made every day glamorous in leather. Readers delighted in photos of Cindy Crawford and Kate Moss wearing cropped jackets over white tees and high-waisted jeans, buying coffee, or navigating airports.
Cindy Crawford
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Kate Moss
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Also around this time, biker jackets were styled casually. Anyone could handle leather if it were layered with a flowing dress or coordinated with shorts and accessories, as shown in the two photos below.
Modern Leather: No Bounds
Today, the biker goes by “moto” for short, but it’s not short on feel and attitude. The durable leather jacket comes in a wide range of styles and silhouettes, but what hasn’t changed is its aura and appeal. Currently, freedom reigns supreme for leathers, from the futuristic Acne Mape silver moto to Balmain’s brown asymmetric biker with gold hardware.
New designers are redefining the fashion item through color, shape, and detail. The hot fashion line G by Giuliana puts a spin on the classic leather jacket with uniquely placed studs and zippers and delicate floral embroidery. The TV personality’s studded moto jacket lets the coolness take over in rose, black, and even yellow. Whether paired with cocktail dresses, leggings, or skinny jeans, the style options are versatile.
Creamy, soft, and moveable: The modern motos on the market offer chic style minus the chunk of the early bikers. Made for women on the move, the jackets transition well from work to evening. Also available in a wide array of neutrals and bolder colors sees a spicier palette over the flat, brown leather jacket bombers of the past.
It’s clear the leather jacket has evolved since its early humble beginnings of military wear and motorcycle days…and it’s now a work of art. Wherever it goes next, it’s sure to make a statement with people of all ages – like a woman flying an airplane or a biker hitting the road. Of course, with attitude.
Conclusion
As we trace the leather jacket’s journey from the military uniform of aviators in the early 1900s and a fashion trend of motorcyclists to a fashion staple and cultural iconography, it’s clear that the iconic leather jacket transcends mere fashion, standing the test of time. It embodies an ethos of rebellion, freedom, and individuality that resonates across generations and subcultures. From Marlon Brando’s seminal moment on the silver screen to the punk stages of the ’70s and through the digital age, where fashion boundaries are continuously pushed and blurred, the leather jacket remains a symbol of unapologetic cool.
Its evolution reflects broader shifts in society, where what was once the uniform of the rebel becomes a canvas for personal expression, celebrated on runways, in music videos, and on city streets around the globe. The leather jacket, in its myriad forms—from the rugged biker to the sleek moto—proves that some pieces of clothing do more than just cover; they communicate, they transform, and they endure.
As the fashion industry continues to evolve, embracing sustainability, technological innovation, and global influences, the leather jacket’s place in the cultural lexicon seems secure. It has morphed from protective gear to fashion statement, from counterculture badge to mainstream staple, all the while retaining its edge and appeal. Its rich history is a testament to the human desire for identity and distinction in an ever-changing world.
In the end, the present day leather jacket stands not just as a testament to enduring style but as a work of art that captures the spirit of its time yet breaks free from temporal constraints. Like a timeless melody, a classic novel, or an iconic photograph, it tells a story that is continually rewritten by those who wear it. As we look to the future, the popularity of leather jackets remains poised to embark on new adventures, to inspire new generations, and to keep making statements—always with attitude. Whether slung over the shoulders of the next screen idol, draped on the chair of a trailblazing CEO, or worn by rebels and visionaries shaping the contours of the 21st century, the leather jacket endures as much a part of our cultural fabric as ever. In every stitch, every crease, and every zipper lies a piece of history and a promise of the future. The journey of the leather jacket is far from over; in fact, it’s an exciting journey and just getting revved up. And for vegan lifestyles, there are options on the market today to please everyone.
6 Key Takeaways Regarding the History of the Leather Jacket
- Cultural Icon: The leather jacket transitioned from practical military and aviator gear to a symbol of rebellion and style, immortalized by figures like Marlon Brando, James Dean, and Joan Jett. It represents an ethos of rebellion, freedom, and individuality across generations.
- Fashion Evolution: The evolution of the leather jacket mirrors changes in society and fashion, from its origins in military wear to its status as a fashion staple across various music and cultural movements, including rock ‘n’ roll, punk, and metal, as well as its embrace by female musicians and fashion icons.
- Design Innovation: Over the decades, designers and brands like Schott Bros, Betsey Johnson, and Norma Kamali have innovated the leather jacket, introducing variations in color, detail, and silhouette, making it a versatile piece in both men’s and women’s fashion.
- Enduring Appeal: Despite changes in trends, the leather jacket retains its cool factor and appeal, symbolizing unapologetic cool and serving as a canvas for personal expression. It has successfully adapted to the times, maintaining its relevance in the fashion industry.
- Future Potential: As the fashion industry evolves towards sustainability and technological innovation, the leather jacket remains poised for new interpretations and innovations, including vegan options, ensuring its place in future fashion narratives.
- Symbolic Significance: The leather jacket stands as a testament to enduring style and a work of art that captures the spirit of its time, continually rewritten by those who wear it. Its journey reflects the human desire for identity, distinction, and rebellion against conformity.
This article encapsulates the leather jacket’s journey from practical attire to a cultural and fashion icon, illustrating its impact on fashion, music, and society at large.
~ Updated February 27, 2024
Check out more photos of leather jackets in the gallery below:
